Rediscovering the Iconic: Zenith’s Chronomaster Open Returns with a New Era of Elegance

In the world of horology, vintage-inspired timepieces have become a dime a dozen. However, it’s rare to see watch companies draw inspiration from the early- to mid-2000s era of watchmaking. This era marked a pivotal moment when high-end mechanical watches transcended their cultural niche status of the ’90s and began captivating a wider audience. Among the brands navigating this era was Zenith, a company that experienced its fair share of ups and downs. In this blog post, we’ll explore the journey of Zenith’s Chronomaster Open, a timepiece that pays homage to the brand’s past while embodying the spirit of modern watchmaking.

A Shift in Leadership and a Period of Excess

After being acquired by LVMH in 1999, Zenith saw a change in leadership in 2001 when CEO Thierry Nataf took the helm. Unfortunately, the Nataf era, which lasted until 2009, is not widely regarded as a favorable period in Zenith’s history. It was characterized by an excessive approach that many view as a misstep for the brand.

Course Correction and Rebirth

Thankfully, the fate of Zenith took a positive turn when Jean-Frédéric Dufour assumed the role of CEO from 2009 to 2015, later moving on to become the chief executive of Rolex. Under Dufour’s leadership, Zenith started on a path of correction and rejuvenation. Today, the brand is guided by Julien Tornare, appointed by Swiss watch industry legend Jean-Claude Biver in 2017. Tornare has led Zenith to one of the watch industry’s hottest streaks. Amidst this progress, one relic from the Nataf era remains—the Chronomaster Open, a subdivision of Zenith’s flagship chronograph collection.

Understanding the El Primero: The Birth of the Chronomaster Open

Created by Thierry Nataf in 2003, the Chronomaster Open aimed to showcase the uniqueness of the El Primero movement. By opening up the dial and revealing the escapement, Nataf sought to provide a wider audience with an understanding of high-frequency watchmaking through the mesmerizing sight of the balance wheel’s 10 beats per second. The Chronomaster Open quickly gained popularity globally and has been an enduring part of Zenith’s catalog ever since.

Revitalizing the Chronomaster Open

In 2022, Zenith breathed new life into the Chronomaster Open. The timepiece underwent a complete facelift, featuring a fresh movement, a revamped dial, and a redesigned 39.5mm case. The updated model incorporates an improved version of the caliber 3600, previously seen in last year’s Chronomaster Sport and Chronomaster Original models. With a fast-moving central seconds hand making one revolution every 10 seconds during chronograph use, the new Chronomaster Open exudes a captivating sense of dynamism. The discontinued 42mm design from Dufour’s tenure has given way to a more contemporary 39.5mm version, available in three options at launch: two stainless steel variations with silver or black dials and a rose gold variant with a silver dial. Notably, this release marks the first appearance of a no-date iteration of the caliber 3600.

Embodying Elegance: The Redesigned Case

The true charm of the new Chronomaster Open lies in its redesigned case profile. Measuring 39.5mm in diameter and 13.1mm in thickness, the case bears resemblance to the Chronomaster Sport,

albeit with slight differences. The polished bezel, rounded pump pushers, slim lugs, and notched push-pull crown create a toolish aesthetic that evokes a sense of purpose and refinement. Additionally, the Chronomaster Open boasts the smallest lug-to-lug measurement within the new Chronomaster family, making it more comfortable on the wrist compared to flagship alternatives from Rolex and Omega.

The Allure of the “Open Heart” Aesthetic

The exposed escapement, often referred to as the “open heart” aesthetic, remains a defining feature of the Chronomaster Open. Zenith was a pioneer in introducing this style, influencing numerous other brands in the process. While opinions on this design vary, Zenith has made notable improvements to enhance the dial’s symmetry and overall aesthetics. The new dial consists of 16 components, showcasing the balance wheel, the purple-blue silicon escape wheel shaped like Zenith’s signature star logo, and the seconds wheel through a hesalite window. The updated caliber 3604 features subtle skeletonization of the mainplate and movement bridges, providing glimpses of the escapement’s constant action. Further attention to detail is found in the engraved concentric azzurage pattern, complementing the non-openworked sub-dials displaying elapsed hours and minutes.

A Timepiece Loved by Enthusiasts

The Chronomaster Open’s enduring popularity is evident in the demand for special editions and collaborations, especially in markets like Japan. Zenith has produced 10 special editions of the Chronomaster Open over the past few years, further cementing its status as a beloved timepiece. Notably, the Chronomaster Open has been the foundation for Zenith’s notable commercial partnerships, including collaborations with iconic names like the Rolling Stones and Cohiba, the renowned Cuban cigar manufacturer.

A Testament to High-Frequency Watchmaking

While the Chronomaster Open may not be universally adored, it remains a testament to the art of high-frequency watchmaking. With its exposed escapement and the intricate inner workings of the caliber 3600, the timepiece offers a unique combination of intrigue and performance that only Zenith can provide. For enthusiasts seeking an up-close experience of Zenith’s latest innovation, the Chronomaster Open undoubtedly offers a remarkable choice.

Conclusion

In the world of watchmaking, few timepieces evoke the charm of a bygone era while capturing the essence of contemporary elegance. Zenith’s Chronomaster Open achieves this delicate balance, paying tribute to the brand’s history while showcasing the cutting-edge advancements of today. Whether you’re an admirer of the “open heart” aesthetic or a fan of high-frequency watchmaking, the Chronomaster Open is a timepiece that deserves attention and appreciation.